BBC Storyworks

in association
with

BBC Storyworks

in association
with

Sorry, your browser doesn't support embedded videos.
Follow the Food

The crucial ingredient our diet lacks

By Eloise Gibson

Many of us strive to eat a healthy diet, but we are missing quality information about where our food comes from.

New technologies and new ways of farming are closing this information gap to help people make better choices.

In September 2018, orange pickers in Brazil began seeing video compilations of photos of smiling Dutch people. The satisfied customers were drinking juice almost 10,000km away from where Brazilians had grown the oranges it was made from, and their enjoyment had prompted them to send the growers an appreciative selfie.

Using Quick Response codes, better known as QR codes, the consumers could generate a map of their juice’s journey to their breakfast tables, see all the stops along the way, and see what percentage of their juice had come from any number of 29 certified-sustainable orange groves. And they could send their selfies back to the farmers.

The idea was simple – to draw a connection between a bottle of juice and where it originated. But the implications of this simple connection are much more profound.

The origins of many of the items on our tables are unknown to the everyday consumer. The expectation is that the information behind the product is lost – how could we possibly know which orange trees gave rise to this bottle of juice, or which field of wheat was responsible for this loaf of bread?

Both new technologies and traditional ways of farming are closing this information gap between the farmer and consumer. As a result, the demand from consumers for better information could transform our food system from the ground up.

So far, there appears to be a real hunger for this information.

The QR code idea came from Albert Heijn supermarkets, which had noticed people wanted to know where their products were from. The supermarket company approached Refresco, the company that bottled its orange juice, and Refresco approached its own orange juice supplier, Louis Dreyfus Company Juice.

“The information was there but it was in everyone’s own systems and the systems weren’t talking to each other,” says Refresco’s communications manager Nicole McDonald. “We found that for people to be able to see how many orange groves their oranges were from and where they were from, as well as how they were transported, was interesting to consumers.”

The businesses absorbed the cost, so making the juice traceable didn’t change the price. Shoppers were pleased and a little surprised when they saw the new QR codes, says McDonald. At first there was a flurry of selfies, although, since juice is a repeat purchase, the pace slowed once people got their second or third QR coded bottle. “Now we are seeing other customers in other countries saying, ‘We can also switch to sustainable juice and…maybe we can find some way to supply traceability.’ It’s a trend and it’s building,” she says.

“It can bring those pickers, who were invisible before, closer to consumers, and vice versa.”

Your browser does not support HTML5 video.

00:00 / 00:00

Advertisement
   seconds

People today are more wary of eating anonymised produce.

Sorry, your browser doesn't support embedded videos.

Data Trail

As anyone who has picked oranges can tell you, the fruit doesn’t always taste the same. They differ between trees, seasons and locations. Visit a supermarket, however, and you’ll find row upon row of identical-tasting orange juice, 365 days a year, even when there’s snow outside.

Our globalised food system allows food to be grown anywhere that has the right climate, before it is then picked, packed, shipped and finally trucked to wherever customers want to buy it. To get juice that tastes the same from one week to the next, a company might mix oranges from different farms and harvests to achieve a precise sweet/sour balance. The modern food system gives us access to unprecedented variety, but also, when we prefer it, exceptional sameness.

The downside is that long and convoluted food chains can obscure where produce comes from to the point where diners may not know which fish or animal species they are actually eating.

“That single package of ground beef can be coming from hundreds of different sources,” says Alexis Bateman, the director of the Responsible Supply Chain Lab at the MIT Center for Transportation and Logistics. “In the seafood industry, there’s a lot of actual fraud…so people want to make sure it’s the right fish.”

Recently, people have been realising there is something lacking from their diets: quality information.

High-profile incidents, like a 2013 scandal when cheap horsemeat was discovered in European beef products, have meant that people today are more wary of eating anonymised produce. “Consumers are realising that they are more vulnerable than they knew,” says Bateman. “It doesn’t mean our food systems are less safe than they were before, it is that there is a growing awareness.”

But tracing a product from farm to fridge via middlemen, resellers, mixers and packers can be daunting. Even the food’s end seller may not know where it has come from. “The problem is that…they don’t want to offer that information until they have good visibility of their own supply chain,” says Bateman. “Even if they feel like they have a good grasp of their supply chain and they have good practices, some of them still don’t want to in case something were to happen.”

A snack such as a packaged biscuit might contain 18 different ingredients, each with its own intricate backstory. Right now, with the exception of a few foods (like beef), there is no strong evidence that most people will pay more or buy more of a food if it is fully traceable, says Bateman. “Until there is a clear competitive advantage that consumers will always buy the choice that has more information, companies are not willing to disclose that.”

Bateman says the market is changing, though – for example, her local supermarket now has a fridge segment dedicated to traceable foods, something she never could have imagined two or three years ago. “It’s piecemeal, it’s slow but there is this demand and the consumer-facing companies are getting pressure to act which is pushing it up the supply chain.”

After this, the juice is then frieghted to a juice distrubution centre, taken to a store and sold to customers.

“It’s about how you make sure the digital record is the truth.”

To track an orange’s journey to the Netherlands from Brazil, the juice companies used a tool that most people probably associate with the digital currency bitcoin. Blockchain enables cryptocurrency, but it is also very useful for recording other data, such as what happens to an orange after it gets picked.

In a blockchain, data is bundled together in a series of parcels known as “blocks” that are digitally “chained” together and stored on many computers at once. Each block of data is tightly encrypted so it can’t be changed by anyone further along the process. For bitcoin, the blockchain records digital transactions of money. But the same system is now being adapted to store data about physical items – including food.

“Every piece of data is time stamped,” says Inma Borrella, who coordinates the Blockchain Research Group at the MIT Center for Transportation and Logistics. “It’s not like a database where you can go in and edit data, it just keeps adding continuously. It allows you to keep a record of all the places [a product] passes through and all the different organisations that have touched a product.”

But tracing food brings additional challenges compared with tracking a purely digital product. “When you are talking about a physical item and not a digital asset, you have the additional challenge of getting an accurate translation of the physical world into the digital world,” says Borrella. “It’s about how you make sure the digital record is the truth and not a misrepresentation or even just a human error.”

Back to the root

Food needn’t go the high-tech route to become traceable. In China, tracking food to the source can be as simple as travelling to a farm open day, 70km from Beijing.

Originally a city-dweller, farmer Shi Yan started Shared Harvest farm near Beijing in 2012 and the farm now feeds 1,000 families. Shared Harvest operates on the Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) model, which lets households sign up to receive fruits and vegetables for up to a year, and pay some of the money upfront.

The early payment system means the people eating the food can share some of the risk with the farmer. “For most farmers, they buy seeds and fertilisers for a whole year,” says Shi.

“That’s a long time for a farmer and it’s hard for small farmers to invest that themselves,” she adds. “Because consumers pay upfront they have this ability to invest in what they need. And because there is no middleman we have the right to price our produce. It gives respect to the farmers and they feel more dignity.”

Not only are the households and the farms connected financially, householders can physically visit the farms to make the bond more personal. Visitors to Shared Harvest’s open days can see the 20 hectare land parcel where 30 greenhouses – tended by 50-70 farmers – grow pears, cherries, peaches, and other varieties of fruit and vegetables for delivery in boxes to Beijing homes. Chickens and pigs are reared, too.

“Our consumers know what they eat and how it was produced, so they will also reduce waste,” says Shi. “Some of our members have been eating our vegetables for three, four, five, six years and their kids have grown up eating our produce, so when they come to the farm and visit us, it’s a very different connection. Our farmers feel responsible, too.”

The produce is grown using methods that mix modern knowledge with ancient Chinese practices. “In China, there is more than 5,000 years of farming history but, when you look back, you see that for most of history our ancestors were doing farming that could be called organic or sustainable. They knew how to compost everything and use manure,” says Shi.

The aim of the Shared Harvest project is to take the most sustainable elements of these ancient practices and build on them using information obtained with modern technologies. “From the beginning, we worked with local farmers who are mostly about 50 to 70 years old, and they still remember when they were young and they used very little or no fertiliser or pesticides, so we learn a lot from them,” Shi says. “The difference is, we grow 80 varieties of vegetable in a year, because we use a lot of data from the internet.”

Shi says the risk-sharing model is expanding in China, with more than 1,000 CSA schemes now up and running. And, while she doesn’t want to expand her own farm, she is sharing her knowledge by running farmer training courses. She laughs when she recalls that one trainee farmer arrived for the course equipped with a degree in agricultural machinery, having never driven a tractor. The courses have been popular. “Last year we had 107 new farmers graduate,” she says.

Your browser does not support HTML5 video.

00:00 / 00:00

Advertisement
   seconds

Your browser does not support HTML5 video.

00:00 / 00:00

Advertisement
   seconds

“We might know the grams of carbon dioxide that are in a product but does the consumer care?”

A farm like Shared Harvest can rely on customers walking in and asking what they want to know. But when customers can’t easily get to their food sources, food sellers need to decide what’s most important to be transparent about. Too much information can easily become meaningless, says Bateman, as certain products become over-plastered with labels.

“We might know the grams of carbon dioxide that are in a product but does the consumer care and would they know how to compare it with another product?” she says.

Consumers aren’t a single group. Instead, their wants are many, varied and changeable. Maybe they hate certain additives, worry about water pollution, care about labour standards, fear for their food’s safety or have allergies. Increasingly, companies are responding to health concerns, like the desire for less sugar that led many soft drink companies to try a new stevia strain, Starleaf sweetener. “In each industry, there is a different hot button topic,” says Bateman. “In chocolate, child labour has been an issue, so everyone wants to make sure they are not using child labour.”

Borrella, the blockchain researcher, says new technologies can only help so much when it comes to sharing meaningful information. A DNA test, for example, can identify beef or fish by species, but at a high cost per item. “We still need to see if the costs of those analyses really make sense in terms of the value it brings back,” she says. For a diamond, it makes sense to use the fanciest identification methods, she says, but: “For an apple? I don’t know.” When it comes to measuring something intangible, like whether a cow has lived a good life, technology can’t give the answer, she says.

While new food-tracing innovations may not solve every question, Bateman says that, over time, they will get cheaper, giving more shoppers the option of transparency. “In a supply chain, everything is about economies of scale. So, if one competitor builds something and it begins to be seen as the industry norm, the price comes down and more companies start to do it,” she says.

Until then, companies might decide to trace their food for others reasons, such as lowering overheads. “Better tracking and tracing and temperature management can make sure there’s less food waste, and knowing where your shipment is can help you see where delay is happening.”

Who knows: if companies are going to go to the trouble anyway, perhaps they they’ll add a function letting foodies and farmers exchange selfies. It’s not quite the same as a farm visit, but, for food from far away, it may bring people that much closer to the food they eat.

Image credits: Getty, Refresco
Graphics sources: Refresco, Shared Harvest CSA

--

This article is part of a new multimedia series Follow the Food by BBC Future and BBC World News. Follow the Food investigates how agriculture is responding to the profound challenges of climate change, environmental degradation and a rapidly growing global population.

Our food supply chains are increasingly globalised, with crops grown on one continent to be consumed on another. The challenges to farming also span the world.

Follow the Food traces emerging answers to these problems – both high-tech and low-tech, local and global – from farmers, growers and researchers across six continents.

Share This

Discover more

A staple food to withstand disaster

The ageing crisis threatening farming

The robots putting food on the table

Copyright © 2019 BBC. The BBC is not responsible for the content of external sites. Read more