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Fashion Forward

Fast fashion is adding to humanity’s collective impact on the environment,

but these social entrepreneurs are helping to close the loop.

Around the world, sustainable fashion is making waves. From local designers to global fashion houses, reused and recycled materials are increasingly finding their way onto international catwalks. As the world shifts to more value-driven choices, and fashion brands become more consumer-centric, sustainable fashion is seeing a massive rise in popularity, with consumers looking for more ethical and eco-friendly brands to support.

The fast fashion industry poses a complex issue in itself, from the many materials used to create a garment, to the reduced durability and increased likelihood of it ending up in landfill. It’s a stark contrast to items that may have been worn again and again a generation ago.

But a wave of new social enterprises are looking at ways to make the fashion industry more sustainable, all the while generating a great business opportunity. Enterprises such as Sweden’s re:newcell and Taiwan’s MiniWiz are turning textile waste into thread that can be used to weave new clothes; eco-conscious designers are seeking out fabrics made from discarded fishing nets; and entrepreneurs are aiming to transform the way we shop.

Young entrepreneur Sissi Chao found inspiration for her business, REMAKEHUB, which helps enterprises close the loop by transforming waste into new products, during work experience at her family business in Shaoxing, China’s textile capital.

“I did a two-month internship in my parents’ factory, and when I visited a lot of our fabric suppliers I basically couldn’t breathe in their factories, as they have very polluted air and water,” Chao recalls. “Within two months, I was ill living in my city because it produces maybe 70 or 80 per cent of the fabric and textiles in China.”

Working within the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) framework, which set ambitious 2030 targets for a fairer, cleaner planet, Chao and her partners focus on partnering with other businesses rather than launching their own brands. “We wanted to clean up as much waste as possible in a very short time, because for us there are only 10 years ahead of us,” she says. “Our strategy is to work with all the top influential and impactful brands, where they can work with us to create renewable products.”

From its base in Shanghai, REMAKEHUB works across a range of industries, from aviation to office furnishings. Their new project, ‘Refuture’, will use blockchain to trace recycled materials through the supply chain. As a self-described recovering shopaholic, fashion is close to Chao’s heart. REMAKEHUB recently produced sustainable sunglasses from recycled fishing net for the World Wildlife Fund, and has crafted watches from materials including coffee grounds and waste paper.

“People should not look at waste as waste. It’s a resource,” Chao says. REMAKEHUB works with DBS Bank as both client and partner, supplying products including water bottles made from old coffee grounds and hoodies from recycled bottles. REMAKEHUB also benefits from mentorship and marketing support provided by DBS Bank.

Looking beyond production techniques, sustainable fashion is rethinking the fundamental economics that underpin the industry. “The best thing consumers can do is really to limit their consumption,” explains sustainable fashion consultant Anna Brismar of Green Strategy.

Brismar recommends seeking alternative routes to a new wardrobe besides buying new, be that vintage shopping or trading with friends, as well as repairing, redesigning and upcycling old pieces, and choosing timeless styles that won’t date. “We can share wardrobes with friends and family. We can lease, and we can buy second-hand,” she says. “We can redesign.”

And, even when shopping for new items, it’s possible to shop more sustainably by seeking out natural dyes, organic fabrics and recycled materials. H&M’s Conscious Collection is setting a new standard for fast fashion brands globally, and Adidas recently created recyclable trainers and hoodies. Outdoor brand Patagonia not only creates durable products and encourages repairs, but also commits to recycling all cleaned gear it receives in store.

In Taiwan, former architects Elizabeth Tsai and Vinka Yang focus on the human cost of fashion through their brand, Twine, which sells environmentally friendly clothing produced in fair trade conditions. With nine stores in Taiwan, plus an online outlet, they help around 3000 small producers around the world, primarily in India, Nepal and Bangladesh, but also further afield in Peru and Kenya.

Twine producers favour traditional and artisanal techniques, and are generally more sustainable than fashion industry standards. “We require them to use organic cotton yarn as much as possible, dye the yarns and use traditional looms to make the fabrics,” Tsai says. “That whole process is hand-made and doesn’t really require energy use at all.”

Importantly, the brand’s weavers, cutters and finishers work in safe, small and family-friendly conditions. One key producer, Creative Handicrafts, is a fair-trade enterprise in Mumbai that helps empower disadvantaged women, including victims of domestic violence and women with health issues, by employing them in co-operatives.

Throwaway Culture

In Singapore, entrepreneur Priyanka Shahra is creating value while simultaneously hoping to reduce the amount of clothing bought by women. Her social enterprise, Swapaholic, runs clothes-swapping events in Singapore and launches its new e-swap website in November.

“Women only wear 20 per cent of their closets,” Shahra says. “Eighty per cent is lying there unoptimised and completely usable. So, rather than buying new, we encourage people to swap it.”

Rather than the straight exchanges favoured by traditional swap meets, Swapaholic uses a point system to ensure swappers get fair value for their garments. With some users swapping as many as 120 hardly worn items, the business has given new life to mountains of clothing.

Shahra claims that each item swapped effectively reduces its carbon footprint, as well as saving water, among other resources. “With every garment that is saved, there are thousands of litres of water that are saved by extending the life of that item, because ultimately we’re hoping that it reduces the need to produce as many garments,” she says.

Whether it’s businesses working to do better for the planet, or consumers asking more from fashion brands, can sustainable fashion be more than just a trend? Regardless, social enterprises across the region are helping push sustainable fashion into the spotlight and, by extending a garment’s life, are reducing our combined impact on the planet.

“With every garment that is saved, there are thousands of litres of water that are saved by extending the life of

that item, because ultimately we’re hoping that it reduces the need to produce as many garments.”

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DBS Bank

Team DBS thinks out-of-the-box as they support a feisty young woman determined to make a lasting change in the trend-obsessed world of fashion. When her dream is given a deadline, can the bankers find a way to pull off the improbable?

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